HOW TO GROW YOUR OWN GARLIC
“One reason I love growing Garlic in the mountains so much is Garlic loves growing in the mountains. Observing garlic’s growth cycles in the mountains is one of the most rewarding parts of farming for me – the plump, dense, hardy cloves planted during the crisp days of fall, winter’s quiet blanket of snow, then green emergence in the spring and tall, symmetrical, proud emerald green plants by June, ready for a nighttime harvest during the hottest days of late July.”
Pete Rasmussen - Head Farm/Garlic Maniac
When you receive your garlic seed from Sandhill Farms, please open the box and place your garlic in a safe, cool, dark, dry location. Garlic grows best in moderately fertile, well-drained soil with high organic matter content. Incorporate compost into your garlic plot prior to planting and loosen the soil to a depth of 10-12 inches for best results.
Fall: Planting
Garlic is planted in the fall, at least 4 weeks before the ground freezes. Late September through late October is a common planting range in the mountain West. In milder climates, garlic may be planted as late as December. Separate individual cloves from the parent bulb just prior to planting. Plant cloves pointed end facing up at least 2 inches deep. Space cloves at least 6 inches apart. Weed-free straw mulch, grass clippings, or dry leaves are great materials for mulch. For urban gardeners, garlic grows well in container planters and raised beds (allow 6” depth for good root growth). Remember to record where you planted each strain for reference in the spring.
Spring: Weeding and Watering
A garlic mentor once said, “You either grow garlic or you grow weeds, but you don’t grow both.” Due to its shallow root structure, garlic does not compete well for water and nutrient resources. For this reason, early season weed management is very important if harvesting large bulbs is important to you. Garlic appreciates regular, deep watering weekly once temperatures begin to warm and spring’s soil moisture begins to dry out. Be careful not to overwater your garlic. Two weeks prior to harvest, stop watering completely to allow the soil to dry out before harvest time.
Summer: Harvesting and Curing
Calculating when to harvest garlic is one of the most important decisions for garlic growers. Garlic harvested too early may not have fully developed bulbs, whereas garlic harvested too late may dry out and split open in the soil, decreasing the firmness and storability of your crop. Harvest your garlic when half the leaves are green and half are dry. Hardneck garlic produces scapes, or edible flower stalks. Uncurling garlic scapes are a great indicator of plant maturation, so don’t eat them all in the spring – leave a few to help you determine the ideal harvest time. When the plants tell you it’s time, carefully loosen the soil with a fork, spade or shovel, tenderly pulling the hidden bulbs from the earth. Do not leave freshly harvested garlic plants in direct sunlight. Brush off loose soil from the roots, bundle plants into bunches of 10, and hang in a well-ventilated, dry, cool location to cure.
Curing is ideal in cool, breezy areas such as a barn or garage. In arid climates, curing may take as little as 10-14 days. Once plant leaves and roots are woody and dry, it’s time to trim your beautiful bulbs. Using sharp garden shears, trim the stalk to about 2 inches and the roots to about ¼ inch. Your garlic is now ready to eat, share or save for fall planting.
Pete Rasmussen - Head Farm/Garlic Maniac
When you receive your garlic seed from Sandhill Farms, please open the box and place your garlic in a safe, cool, dark, dry location. Garlic grows best in moderately fertile, well-drained soil with high organic matter content. Incorporate compost into your garlic plot prior to planting and loosen the soil to a depth of 10-12 inches for best results.
Fall: Planting
Garlic is planted in the fall, at least 4 weeks before the ground freezes. Late September through late October is a common planting range in the mountain West. In milder climates, garlic may be planted as late as December. Separate individual cloves from the parent bulb just prior to planting. Plant cloves pointed end facing up at least 2 inches deep. Space cloves at least 6 inches apart. Weed-free straw mulch, grass clippings, or dry leaves are great materials for mulch. For urban gardeners, garlic grows well in container planters and raised beds (allow 6” depth for good root growth). Remember to record where you planted each strain for reference in the spring.
Spring: Weeding and Watering
A garlic mentor once said, “You either grow garlic or you grow weeds, but you don’t grow both.” Due to its shallow root structure, garlic does not compete well for water and nutrient resources. For this reason, early season weed management is very important if harvesting large bulbs is important to you. Garlic appreciates regular, deep watering weekly once temperatures begin to warm and spring’s soil moisture begins to dry out. Be careful not to overwater your garlic. Two weeks prior to harvest, stop watering completely to allow the soil to dry out before harvest time.
Summer: Harvesting and Curing
Calculating when to harvest garlic is one of the most important decisions for garlic growers. Garlic harvested too early may not have fully developed bulbs, whereas garlic harvested too late may dry out and split open in the soil, decreasing the firmness and storability of your crop. Harvest your garlic when half the leaves are green and half are dry. Hardneck garlic produces scapes, or edible flower stalks. Uncurling garlic scapes are a great indicator of plant maturation, so don’t eat them all in the spring – leave a few to help you determine the ideal harvest time. When the plants tell you it’s time, carefully loosen the soil with a fork, spade or shovel, tenderly pulling the hidden bulbs from the earth. Do not leave freshly harvested garlic plants in direct sunlight. Brush off loose soil from the roots, bundle plants into bunches of 10, and hang in a well-ventilated, dry, cool location to cure.
Curing is ideal in cool, breezy areas such as a barn or garage. In arid climates, curing may take as little as 10-14 days. Once plant leaves and roots are woody and dry, it’s time to trim your beautiful bulbs. Using sharp garden shears, trim the stalk to about 2 inches and the roots to about ¼ inch. Your garlic is now ready to eat, share or save for fall planting.
